This blog will chronicle my medical volunteer work with Village Health Works in Burundi.

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Back in Kigutu


I have arrived here at the clinic. It is, for me, a coming home again; a coming home to a place that will always be special to me; a place that is now a constant in my life. I was nearly brought to tears tonight as I sat there at the communal dinner, with all of my friends and colleagues around me, eating our usual dinner of rice and beans, with Melino's African music playing, and the beautiful African star-lit sky around us, breathing that soft African air. All of us there for a common purpose, and I share in that purpose. I am, as I keep saying, the lucky one, that I can do this; that I can be but a small part of this selfless endeavor. I cannot imagine not doing it. I know my time here is limited, and I would not, nor could not have it any other way. But I love it here, for it brings a certain meaning and joy to my life that I could not have elsewhere.
 There have been significant changes in the clinic since last year; “changes” meaning modernization of the clinic. There are now three separate wards: one for men, one for women and children, and a third one for malnutrition (some of the sick, non-malnourished children are housed in this latter ward). Previously, there were only two wards: the first was for men and women together; the second for the malnourished children. The sick, but not malnourished children, were divided between the two wards.
There are new tile floors in each ward, as opposed to the dusty and dirty, old concrete floors. There is more space between the beds, although the wards would still seem impossibly crowded by American hospital standards. The overall effect is that the clinic seems cleaner and more sanitary.
This is my third year at the clinic, and I know that the cliché of “expect the unexpected” is a truism here in Kigutu. But my first working day back at the clinic was far more than unexpected. It was my medical version of what Alice must have experienced when she walked through that famous looking glass into her wonderland.
The day started out innocently enough, as the team of doctors and nurses started our hospital rounds with the usual suspects: the diabetics with their diabetes out of control. We can regulate the diabetics’ blood sugars in the hospital with the use of insulin. The problem comes when those diabetics go home. They vast majority of them cannot afford the cost of the insulin. We can give them a short supply, but once that supply is exhausted, they are left where they started: blood sugar again out of control. Moreover, most of our population can neither read nor write, nor do they know numbers either. That makes it impossible for them to administer the appropriate dose of insulin.
We, therefore, try to transition these diabetic patients to an oral glycemic agent, like Metformin, before we send them home. The process of effecting that transition takes days, if not weeks. That is why we have at least three or four diabetics in the hospital at any given time.
We eventually finished rounding on the diabetic patients. It was then that my “looking glass” day began. The next patient was a sixteen year old boy, with a history of epilepsy. He had been on the ward three months. His story goes as follows: he had a seizure at home, during which, as a result of the seizure, he fell into a fire. However, no one would rescue him from the fire while he was having the seizure. The reason? Because it is a commonly accepted belief here that, if one touches someone who is having a seizure, one will then develop epilepsy; that epilepsy is passed on exactly in this way; that it is contagious by contact with a patient in the midst of a seizure. But, wait, there is more to the story: if the person having the convulsion passes gas (aka, farts) during the convulsion, one will then develop epilepsy as a result of inhaling that gas. That is why people stand far back when someone is having a seizure.
This Burundian folk belief was confirmed by another, and completely independent source. One of my clinic patients today was a sixteen month old boy who has a previously untreated seizure disorder. The child has had multiple seizures, and I questioned the mother as to what she does when her son has a seizure. She said that she never touches him during the seizure, but, instead, stands several feet away.
There is more to the story of the 16 year old boy with the seizure. His seizure, as all seizures eventually do, stopped. It was only then that he was pulled out of the fire. It goes without saying that he suffered severe burns. The only good news is that the burns were confined to the lower half of his body. He was then taken to the traditional healer (mupfumu) for the treatment of his burns, rather than being brought to the hospital. Herbal remedies were applied to the burns for two weeks. The burns became increasingly infected, to the point that his entire legs were one coalescent abscess. It was at that belated point that his family carried him into the clinic. He could not walk by then. Appropriate and aggressive treatment was begun immediately with high doses of antibiotics and frequent dressing changes.
It is to the credit of the doctors and the nurses here that the results are as good as they are. The fact that it is three months since he was first admitted to the clinic gives you an idea how severely infected the burns were when he was first admitted. The boy would have died if his family had waited any longer to bring him to the clinic.
Perhaps you can get some idea of the extent of his burns when you see this picture taken of him, three months after admission to the hospital.

 The story of the epileptic boy and his burns is indicative of the strength of cultural beliefs here. It is unfortunate that these beliefs are often so damaging and dangerous.
I saw again today the power of these beliefs. A six month old child was brought into the clinic this afternoon. He was close to death. He had high fever, and, more importantly, had been suffering from what must have been severe diarrhea for a week. He was as dehydrated as any child I have ever seen. He was a limp rag, barely aware of his surroundings. He made no eye contact, and did not move as I examined him. One of the reasons for his profound dehydration was that his mother had given him an “enema with traditional herbal medication.” Her thinking was that the enema would, in her words, “relax his stomach;” not exactly the right approach when your six month old has profuse, watery diarrhea. 
Here is a picture of the child prior to his fluid resuscitation. 

I will, however, reassure you that the child will almost certainly recover. Maneno, one of our most expert nurses and a magician at getting I.V.’s into tiny veins, got an I.V. into this particular child. The child is now receiving the large amounts of I.V. fluid needed to correct his dehydration. You will be even more reassured to know that I just saw the child. It is now approximately three hours post-admission, and the child is significantly improved. He is moving again, and is far more reactive and responsive. I have every reason he will ultimately be fine. Hopefully, the next time he gets diarrhea, the mother will not give him an enema with traditional herbal medications.  
I break off here my tale of my first workday at the clinic. I do so because there is so much more to tell about that first day, so much that will require further blog postings. I will get to those future postings, but first I want all of you who read this blog to once again get a flavor of “my home away from home.” I leave you with two pictures, the first, taken from the hill overlooking the clinic, of sunset over Lake Tanganyika.

And, finally, to get the human element at the clinic, a picture of a family of three children enjoying the little toys that I brought from home.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

May 21, 2012: The African Adventure begins again. I will be leaving my home in Los Angeles in less than 48 hours, and returning to the now familiar surroundings of Kigutu. I will be departing Wednesday in the early A.M. for my third sojourn in Burundi. I am not a religious person;  in fact, those who know me know that I am vehemently anti-religious. But Burundi serves as my religious experience. Kigutu is my mecca. This trip has become my annual pilgrimage, my hegira to escape the modern world that I normally inhabit.

Why do I go? I go because I have to go. I go because I cannot imagine not going. I go because my time in Kigutu fulfills both personal and professional needs for me. I go because this trip provides a necessary respite from my routine here. I go because I  love the work. I go because I love the people of this small, landlocked, impoverished nation. I go because I love the children of this small, landlocked, impoverished country. I go because of the indomitable spirit that is so much a part of the people of Burundi. I go because I love the doctors and nurses with whom I work. I count many of those nurses and doctors as my friends now, and number one of those friends would be the gentle giant, Dr. Melino. I go because, once again, I will work with Dr. Melino: a role model for all of my fellow physicians. I go because, in the midst of the hard work we do, we have time to have fun, to laugh, and to enjoy life. I go because Kigutu is a sea of tranquility in the maelstrom that is my life outside Kigutu. I go because my experience in Burundi brings me an inner peace and tranquility that I find nowhere else. I go because being there simply makes me happy, and because of the joy that I feel when I am there. I go because I have fallen in love with a continent, a continent that goes by the name of Africa. And what is it that I love about this exotic continent; this continent of extreme contrasts: the overwhelming beauty and the equally overwhelming poverty? I love the sights, the sounds, the feel, the rhythms of Africa. I love the essence of Africa, the spirit of Africa. It is a continent that draws me to it, that beckons me to come very year.

I go back to Burundi because I can go back to Burundi. I have the professional expertise and training to do meaningful work in a third world country. I count myself lucky that I can do that, for not  many people can do essentially the same work in a setting completely foreign to their normal setting.  I can  also go because my partners encourage me to go. I list them by name to give them each credit for their unflagging support in my annual journey: Drs. Marshall Goldberg, Marie Medawar, Michael Wolke, Lynn Osher, and Mary Choi. I thank them collectively and individually for their generosity of spirit in allowing me to do this every year. I know that my extended absence from the practice places an extra work-load burden on them; I owe them a debt of gratitude for taking on that extra work-load.

Finally, I go because (and only readers of my previous blog posts will understand this) the Short Tie Club (STC) needs me. The STC is at a crisis point right now, so much so that I am concerned that its mere existence is in question. This is all because of the nefarious efforts of the Long Tie Club (LTC) to poison the minds of the people against it. Their propaganda directed at the STC has fulfilled their desired aim of destroying the reputation of the STC. I return to re-establish that reputation. I believe that my presence is required in Burundi to put the STC back on solid ground. I promise that I will lead the STC out of the wilderness and back into the prominent position they once held. I further promise that I will once again make the STC the pre-eminent tie club not only in Burundi, but also anywhere in the world where ties are worn.  I must go now so that the day will come, as it once did, when, as the pictures below demonstrate, every man, woman, child, dog, and cat will, once again, be proud to wear the Short Tie.

















I am eager to go to Burundi, yet there is much that I will miss over the next six weeks. I will miss my daughters, Julie and Jessica, and my son-in-law, Garth. yet I will stay in touch with all of them via our daily Skype sessions. I will miss my morning cappucino, my morning breakfast routine. I will miss my twin Bichons, the irascible Ozzie and Harry. I will miss our morning and evening walks together.

But there is something new this year, something that was not present during my previous sojourns in Burundi; something that has changed my life; as well as the lives of many others. This something is actually a someone, and her name is Violet Rees Friedrich (although she often goes by the diminutive of Vio.).  She is the daughter of the former Julie Rose Shulman, and her husband, Garth Friedrich. She is the new love of my life, as well she should be. Moreover, I can state, as a completely objective observer, that she is a beautiful baby. I will miss this child, as only a "grampy," (for that is what I am called) can miss his beloved granddaughter. I will miss seeing her and being with her over these next six weeks. I will miss watching her grow and develop and evolve over that time. I know she will be a different human being when I come back, and a cuter one too. I will miss her smiling face, and her adorable personality. I will miss my Thursday evenings with Vio. I  will miss everything about her: the now three month old Vio. Finally, I offer in evidence photographic proof that my granddaughter is indeed a beautiful baby. Here she is at three months of age. The first picture is the swimsuit edition of Vio., as she readies herself for her first swimming party. Based on this picture, I see her as a Sports Illustrated swimsuit model, circa 2032. The second picture is Vio. in her ready-for- summer outfit.








Thus I bid adieu to all of my friends and family here in the United States, as I take wing on the next installment of the adventure known as "Dr. Pete Goes To Burundi." More to come from Burundi. Far more.